Yeah i tend to use the gradient square but i don't like the effect it gives on some liveries where it is really noticeable. I'm always open to better ideas on how to improve the weathering.
Sure I know what you mean I have the same issues with them so this is why I thought I’d offer a solution,as I find makes it easier on the eye. It won’t work with all liveries due to the nature of the process as it can interfere or over lap with say lettering or numbers depending on placement. So I’ll do my best explaining the steps. It’s a good solution for this class I feel. Here we go. Say for example don’t matters what way you work I guess when you set the blue and yellow decals. What I would do first is make the whole under body the shade you want the weathering to be. No decals yet. Then place you yellow and blue decals over the body as you would but leave a space at the lower body work. This is where you want the layer line for your weathering to begin working down with the gradient decal set in the blue body work colour. Just bare in mind where that line matches up as you will have number decals or logos to think of when setting the hight or line level for you body decal and gradient decals working down to meet. what you should have then is a set level for weathering line so that the gradient decal in blue works down,,,if letters are in the way then slightly adjust the white as I do,you can play with that to get the match you want as you will then need to place a gradient decal working upwards over the lettering over the blue downwards gradient decal with that over the underbody. That blue gradient decal will match up with your first decals of the half blue and yellow front ends. Do the same for the yellow front ends to,,as you don’t want the blue weathering to hit the yellow nor the yellow lap the blue. The 3rd step IE the gradient decal in the dust shade you want to blend and work with the under body work will go over all those previous steps. I will have to do a quick shot for you so it’s clearer so you know what I am on about,,but I am currently busy with a few requests for liveries. But if you do follow me you can see then you can add more gradients over each other adjust those shades as you go so they will blend better and then as a tip I do on most liveries is to then fill the whole body with one decal fade the colour so then it blends the lines together better,,,but take note as this will alter the whole depth and shade to your colour work and weathering. So just bare that in mind in how you want the over all look and contrasting conditions when starting out with underbody. But again in time you can get used to what level of darkness or lightness to the body work depending on locos working conditions. You can add a grey dust tone or reddish or if working with coal then black. So I hope this helps you out and I know it may not seem clear so I will endeavour to show you pics. And I just want to say I appreciate your response as I respect you greatly for the work you do and the quality within. It’s an honour to share some of my knowledge with you. Cheers. Lee.
Sadly I couldn’t detail the Vectron as I ran out of layers quickly. Here’s my attempt on a BR193 in “Ouigo Classique”, based on the BB22200 from the “broken nose” series. I’ll finish tomorrow the coaches as I just have to add some details.
Thanks for that...... I don't really follow what you are describing though I'm afraid so I think it's gonna need a video or some images to fully explain what you mean.
I thought so I probably made a right hash of explaining,,so don’t worry. I will endeavour to do a video or pics for you at some point for I am currently busy on a project but please bare with me I will get back to you. I know it sounds a lot but you’ll get my drift when I get back and show you in pictures or something. Catch you soon Dave. Lee.
Wow they look very neat indeed,,,just out of interest as I don’t work on those units but all the lower markings did you do them or are they built on to the model?. For if you placed them then fantastic work,,,I know myself what it’s like so seriously we’ll done,,well tidy motor. Lee (TSLP)
Thank you ! Sadly markings aren’t parts of the locomotive, I had to do it manually and it’s still missing some (I ran out of layers that’s why). On some trains, marking are already implemented though. Once again thanks for your comment I appreciate it.
Well now I know this I am truly amazed as I am aware some have set markings but on this one you had to do it all by hand manually is staggering it really is as I have made about 5 1000 decal liveries up to date and many more that are close. To plan and work out if such a livery is achievable is key but it’s hard and like you found myself having to skip or miss certain things out which I don’t know about you but leaves a bitter taste in my mouth as I know it’s not how it should be,,it’s not complete even tho we know if we had 3000 layers we can truly work on with freedom to recreate and plod on to our hearts content. Because working on something like what you have is a big deal and to fall short by say even five decals is enough to get any passionate grown man crying after that initial excitement on the get go to that feeling of dread when your start to run out. So sometimes we may feel there not right but come on look at what you have done,,,having a few decals missing is better than not having one at all. It’s a minter And hey don’t worry about the comments I seen how much work you put in,,its well worthy of a compliment. So anytime. Cheers. Lee.
Mornings,,,I’m just getting back to you on this so called solution I said I had. I won’t waste you time as yesterday I did what I said I would and so have all the pictures of the necessary steps,,,,but on first go and after a few minutes or playing around with the shading could I get that smooth finish I once could?,, noooooo I was way out,,but I know it can take up to a 1hr or 2hr to get that right match to blend but I was up all night so to be fair wasn’t in the best mind to be doing it. But saying this the lighting is just nasty on them gradient decals. They seem worse than better or is it the lighting as I am now on PS5 and using TSW4 for testing. Daft as it sound they seemed smoother on TSW2 but noticed a shift with the lighting that came with later DLCs and mostly the changes when TSW3 came out. So I did say I’ll send you the steps so here they are. I think as soon as you see them you will get it. If you don’t use these step now yet choose to you may have to have a good play around tho as I won’t lie it’s a pain a real pain. Even more if you have issues of instant saves like on PBD,,,I have to close the game down for liveries to show completely for testing like this. So again it’s a real pain and if your not prepared to spend a full day like I do sometimes just trying get it right or fight around other issues then I don’t blame you if you tell me to shove it where the sun don’t shine. I wouldn’t blame you either as people don’t have all day like me to sit going back and too back and too to get it right as again that’s all I find I do when trying to get a right colour match say for an A3. But if you decide to lock your self away for a day with a good bottle of whisky to easy the pain of the process then at the end of it you’ll either have a great looking weathered livery or a really bad head. Or have a bad livery yet had a great night on the pop. Either way you had fun. So without further ado here are the steps. It’s not for every one. A painful process. Yet done right be rewarding. This may be better suited for TSW2 and TSW3 tho as I may looking into this process more for TSW4. But again have a play you might get it right because your good at what you already. Step one. Full body paint in your choice of colour for weathering. Step 2. First blue layer. Set as seen or to desired height level. Step 3. Same with yellow layer. Step 4. Setting the gradient layer. Fade Down. I reached my max for photos and again you know what your doing so when you see theses first steps you’ll see where I am going. As basically after this step above you simple do the same for front end in yellow gradient then set numbers logos darkening the white then if so wish add a gradient decal over them. I’ll place the full final result in the editor as like I say the weathering in the light looks bad but I know this process works as most of my class 37s and 47s have used some form of this process. Including “Tornado” TSLP1 if you want to use that as ref. As this is just a simple way there can be a more complicated process if dealing with a particular livery as sometime changing the colour tone where certain gradients decals marry up under the above colour. Or set next too. For another point to consider is especially with TSW2 and TSW3 is decal limit. Wouldn’t be an issues with a class 101 as you can see it only 12 decals for some form of a look. But if considering a high demand livery like I did (I cocked up with spelling,,,on my class 37 601 ROG in Weathered condition see maybe having a drinking isn’t the best policy when making a livery). then again it’s something to bare in mind. So sorry for long message and I know it may be something you may not use but like I say I did say I send some more information. I am sure tho after all I have said you are good at what you do so may get it work and for what your looking for. Cheers again. Lee.
Hi last few steps so you get the idea of what I am on about. Have a mess around with the lightness of the shades etc to find the match you want. The large pink layer is what I do to tie it all together and add that rough texture away from looking brand new all day. Obviously I don’t leave it pink but change it the level of contrast to suit and tie in with all layers below that’s why you may need to adjust colours or shades below to get the final result you want,,and why it can become a tedious process. And why I alway have a good bottle of whisky for emergency purposes lol. Good luck. Lee.
Finally I finished detailing coaches as much as possible, I tried to reach real life and be realistic:
The BR142 in Arriva livery, sadly on some part of the train, layers can’t be applied correctly hence why it looks weird around the doors, I tried to be as much realistic as possible:
Thought I’d share my latest Class 801/2 Set 219 “Bittern” . The liveries are a part of the A4 Heritage Fleet. 219 is seen next to “Warrior” sadly a my first attempt so has a few issue but 219 I’ve had time to focus and give them decals the attention they so needed. Any feedback would be appreciated as set 219 has not be released yet. Thanks.
As DTG don’t care (again) about fixing stuff broken on their games, I have to redo some liveries I use the most in priority, because all my liveries from previous TSW are broken on TSW4. Enough complaining, here’s the Class 378 with the old Overground livery:
Wish the nameplates didn't randomly appear on creator's club liveries... Otherwise, the new class 47 is nice.
Hi Derek. Great to see some freight liveries on the 47s. Good work, they have a real 'look' about them - 'work-weary' Can I just make one observation - the numbers on all 3 locos should be on the driver's cabside, not the secondman's side, and the BR arrow on 47365 should be with the number on the drivers cabside. Here's a pic of 47099 in Railfreight Grey. I apologise for being pedantic, just me! Dave
Made this livery a few days ago and now available in Creators Club. Maybe it's not very original but worth to try. I hope this won't get down.
I made a DB schenker 66 (66097) - I did two variants; weathered and clean. Both are uploaded now, I used the Cargo Line: Petroleum (which I understand not everyone has, sorry) as it's one of the better 66s in the game in my opinion, based on the window effects/tint and headlights. The reason I made this was simply because I really like the DBS 66 in the game, however its sounds are awful and it isn't useable on many routes, so I wanted to make one that has good sounds and is available on all routes! L Here's the weathered one:
And finally (after being essentially banned due to spamming - with ONE comment) here's the clean one:
Is there a green, ochre, Dutch livery available to subscribe to for the class 31 with or without a white stripe?
Unfortunately the Class 31 isn't livery designer compatible as of now, I've no clue if there are plans to make it compatible or not.. we can only hope but I doubt it as I can't imagine it's an easy process, it took ages for the GWE HST to be compatible..!
Not perfect, but a representation of D0260 Lion. Yes, it has failed, and yes, it is being rescued by an 8F!!
Probably my favorite liveries. The OSE class 120 "Hellas Sprinter" Classic early 2005 OSE Livery for DB BR101 Locomotive & The before refurbishment Hellenic Train 1st/2nd Class classic coach livery.
A bit of a random diversion for me following a request from a friend. Still plenty of work to do but, TBH, I'm quite pleased with how it is starting to look.
I don't think so, I've only seen two repaints available for the 31 (IC Mainline and Civil Engineers Grey (not Dutch)) and both come with warnings that they will replace the existing blue 31. I think there is an issue which is preventing folks from being able to add extra liveries with it being a "one size fits all" loco, hopefully something will change and we get our variety as I'd love more sectorisation liveries
I see (I could have sworn they were) though there are some on the trainsim community website (RR, ICM, Green and EWS).
