Anyone? Why doesn't it have the 766 on both ends like all "EMUs"? From what I'm experiencing, there's quite a big difference in how the 766 handles and operates depending on which of the locos it's coupled with. The BR 143 by far making things weird. The BR 143 has a very weird breaking system. Either that or the scanario There and Back Again on Dresden - Riesa is bugged, which I doubt?
so first of all, the Dosto cab cars have no pantos and no motors, and all the other fancy tech to make a rail vehicle move, that's what the locomotive is for. However there are actually Dosto EMUs, Bombardier Twindexx, where the end cars are motorised and have a pantograph: So a locomotive is not required here. We don't have this in TSW though (or yet, as there's always a chance for everything), so who knows when we get this
Interesting! Never caught on this. And now it makes sense why when operating the 766, it behaves differently depending which loco is coupled with it. Very nice. Thanks for elaborating on this.
Air brakes should be relatively consistent, but electrodynamic brake will have different characteristics in the consist depending on the loco too. But yes, you are mistaking multiple unit type of train (whole consist acts together as a powered unit) and push-pull type of train (remote-controlled loco in otherwise "dumb" consist). As an interesting bonus to your initial question, there is actually no reason why it cannot have 766 on both ends (as long as the loco is somewhere in the consist too). Allegedly some trains on Hamburg - Lübeck route used that in the past, dropping off the unneeded half for off-peak hours.
On the other hand, a more serious question regarding the 143. How do you break optimally with this loco? I can see that when using AFB lever for breaking (setting the speed limit below the current speed), if the train is still in acceleration, the number has to tick down to 0 (on the HUD) before the breaking system is engaged, which means there could be a potential delay between me wanting to break and the loco actually engaging the breaks. But also when I'm using the train break it seems that even then it will take a few seconds for the breaks to actually kick in. And it has been quite a pain in the a** getting the train to stop optimally. So the driving experience so far is not a pleasent one. I'm sure it's because I'm not used to operating this loco. What am I doing wrong? Should I just use the Direct Break? Is my break setting between throttle and break incorrect? Edit; I think I'm getting a hang of the breaking system better now! Driving this train forces you to drive in a very smooth and consistent manner where you can't really herk your way around breaking/throttling. It's much more delicate. Edit 2: After driving some more I've now understood that Train Break should not be engaged at all during actual driving, unless it's for the final stopping of the train. Only AFB throttle should be applied for gradual breaking, until that final stop. Otherwise I constantly got into a traction lock from which I had to recover. Very cumbersome and difficult to operate. I assume this would be the correct way to drive the BR 143? Because now the relationship improved dramatically! Final Edit: I now love driving the BR 143!
"The number" is the power notch that the loco is in. You should not apply any brakes unless you're in notch 0. You can still apply brakes while the loco is under power, but in real life it's not good for the loco. That is an error in the TSW implementation of the 143. In real life the traction lock goes away as soon as you release the brakes, no speed selector reset necessary.
unrelated but when will you come back to the Dresden-Riesa timetable? We haven't heard from you in a while.
Thanks for the explanation! After fiddling a bit I actually find the BR 143 quite satisfying to operate now! Now I'm only applying train break for that final stop at the station when I'm down to < 20km/h. And most all the time the power notch is always at 0 when I start applying breaks with the AFB, since I'm pretty much always coasting at the track speed when I need to reduce speed. So I guess I did things correctly intuitively. It was just a bit confusing in the beginning because I usually apply train breaks for most other locos and disengage without getting into traction lock, which this train does all the time.
It is called the Push-Pull formation that saves time and resources. When train comes to final destination on the line, there is no need of changing ends with locomotive - that comsumpts time and human work (aprox. 10-15 min. IRL), driver just sits in other end of formation - to the cab-car, and the entire formation just drive “backwards” to the another end of line.
There is a whole thread with BR143 driving tips somewhere around. The thing is though, that the implementation in game is missing crucial buttons and features (like the coasting button), so even while it can be pleasant to master in TSW, you still have to operate it completely different from reality. Maybe we will see it implemented properly on Kinzigtalbahn, but I doubt so.
Actually, this would be a Twindexx Vario...slightly different body, it's own panto, and well, numbered 445/446 (more or less)
I imagine that ZWS might disagree with that configuration so you'd have to isolate it on one of the cab cars. Although I can't remember if Dostos use ZWS, ZDS or ZMS (or WTB??)?
Are you sure how to use it?? The main AFB lever only shows the AFB speed target. You need to play with (on keyboard) F and R buttons on the keyboard to control the amount of "traction effort" this is your typical (A D) power you apply. There is a little switch over the AFB lever that says braking mode. If you turn on that one the "traction effort" will be the amount of electric brake you apply. To drive effectively the train (and actually enjoy it without locking the wheels) you need to use the "braking mode" on OFF when you want to accelerate. Then when you reach the AFB speed you have chosen and you want to decelerate let's say from 120 to 80 you have to : 1. change into braking mode 2. Choose the traction effort (amount of power) you will apply. lets say you go down from 70% to only 40% or you want to increase it to 100%. 3. Use the AFB lever to lower the target speed to 80. You'll see how the train will not brake unrealistically and will start to slow down using only the electric brake (at 100% because of traction effort controlled by R and F). 4. Apply train brake on the 2nd notch, and go from there to bigger notches if you feel that you need more braking force. 5. when you stop needing to brake, switch back the "braking mode off" because your loco would not accelerate to maintain the target AFB speed. edit: For acceleration 1. use the switch for braking mode off 2. chose a low traction effort (power) 3. Set AFB to target speed. Let's say 120kmh 4. The train will start moving slowly. Play with the traction effort so the power meter doesn't go over 60k to maintain a good acceleration. In case you "blow" the traction motor there is a switch next to the pantograph to open and close the circuit to get power again
I'm not sure you are right. I don't get traction locked and then I don't need to reset the speed. It's because you are not driving the train as it was indented that you need to do that. The speed target doesn't need to get all down to 0 for you to stop. AFB it's still afb. you can see my comment in this thread (above this one) on how to drive the br 112 and 143 in game so you don't need to reset the AFB speed target
I know how the train is intended to be driven. I've read the original Deutsche Reichsbahn manual for the 143 and a bunch of secondary literature. The 143 does not have "AFB", it's its own thing and works very differently to AFB on a modern 3-phase AC loco. There is no "braking mode". All that the "brake only" driving program does is disable acceleration. It doesn't change anything about how the brakes work.
There seems to be an issue with the BR 143, at least on Dresden - Riesa TSW2 version, which doesn't seem to be a problem on Ruhr Sieg Nord TSW2 route. On Dresden - Riesa, breaking with the Train Break will disengage the throttle, meaning the train goes into traction lock. So the way I do it here is I just use the throttle for everything and only apply train break for the final stopping at stations. It seems to be a bit of a strange mix, really, because it seems that this occurs even on BR 146.2 also. On some routes the traction lock is applied when using the train break and you need to reset everything, on others the traction lock is not applied when using the train break.
Did some driving with new BR114. It's not perfect, but a definite improvement over BR143 from DRA and older routes. I can see it replacing 143 and 112 for me. First things first, all of the bugs that we saw on a stream yesterday, are not present in the release build. When Matt was driving, there were no sounds for Sifa and PZB, and brakes were acting very weirdly. In release version everything works fine. Secondly, coasting button is still not implemented, but traction lock logic is improved. Now traction lock disengages as soon as you release brakes, so there's no need to cycle speed selector anymore. Thirdly, there's a lot of small QOL improvements like working Aus/Brightness/Contrast buttons on Ebula, and more interactable switches (several heating switches, NBU, and so on), although they might just be for show. There's also suspension physics implemented. Can't really say much about whether visuals/sounds are good. And last, but not least, I played included scenario for 114 called Pull!, and surprisingly it turned out to be pretty good (I said "surprisingly" because most of the time scenarios end up being pretty meh). For example, this scenario includes functioning switch box for setting points in the yard (that you need to key in and manually operate) and AI giving you a lift. And also at one point you get Zs7 signal, though I'm not really sure why.
Are you referring to TSW5 here? Damn, I forgot it's already Sept 14th and people who've purchased Deluxe version have early access before the Sept 17th launch! I merely hope that the nuances and bugs from older routes and trains on previous versions are fixed.
Respectfully disagree, I could in fact only trigger a traction lock when opening the doors, even dumping the brakes wouldn't trigger it, as you can see. Such a shame, I was about as excited for this 114 as I was for the 112 years ago, and I was about as disappointed now, but I did refund about as quickly as I refunded whatever route the 112 came with
^^ One of the good things is the fact that the direct brake doesn't obstruct one of the gauges, though
