PC Peninsula Corridor Journey

Discussion in 'TSW General Discussion' started by rat7_mobile, Mar 2, 2020.

  1. rat7_mobile

    rat7_mobile Well-Known Member

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    THe journey can not be completed, in one of the early ride, it goes from San Francisco to San Jose Diridon, when ending at the end of the ride, you have to unload the passengers, it does not do the timer like usual, this one is done in block, and the least 1/6 of the circle for the timer never fills, and the game become stuck there and there is nothing else that can be done that I know of

    How do I get through it and continue the journey

    THanks in advance
     
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  2. Factor41

    Factor41 Well-Known Member

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    I've had a couple of glitches with the passenger loading, but it's usually just resolved itself if I open and close the door a few times, with a bit of a pause between each.
     
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  3. Jeannot41

    Jeannot41 Well-Known Member

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    Isn't that where you have to open the doors on the opposite side?
     
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  4. Factor41

    Factor41 Well-Known Member

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    I don't think so in this case. I've done a few on Peninsula Corridor where it just behaves weirdly at the final stop - it'll load for a bit, then you just jump to a full green loading circle, but nothing seems to be happening and you don't get the "Lock Doors" message. If you close and open the doors, after a while it catches up with itself and moves on to the next task.
     
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  5. rat7_mobile

    rat7_mobile Well-Known Member

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    And now, if I make the mistake of using the brake, and it goes into the EMERGENCY, the only thing that can be done is to restart the game completely or it will never ever go again
     
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  6. Olaf the Snowman

    Olaf the Snowman Well-Known Member

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    That should be easy to resolve. If you did the tutorial, it goes through the process to reset the system after an emergency brake application. You will notice the ‘PCS’ (pneumatic control switch) on the indicating lights panel will be lit up (red light) when you have put the train into emergency brake.

    Leave or put back the automatic air brake into emergency
    1. Put throttle to idle
    2. Put reverser switch to Neutral
    3. Now release the automatic air brake

    You should now see the brake pipe and equalising reservoir recharge, brake cylinder pressure decrease and PCS light extinguish thus power can now be applied to get the train moving again.

    Slightly more complicated if you’ve accidentally shut down the engine by putting the throttle into ‘STOP’ particularly if in the cab car end.
     
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  7. rat7_mobile

    rat7_mobile Well-Known Member

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    Where is the PCS light, I do not have this in this train
     
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  8. Olaf the Snowman

    Olaf the Snowman Well-Known Member

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    194BC8AE-7564-4776-A1A5-BE4159861F49.jpeg
    I am not sure which locomotive/driving cab you are on, this is the F40 locomotive- I’ve circled it in yellow. The cab car has something very similar on the left hand side.

    Also should have said if you are in the locomotive when resetting, put independent brake to full service.
     
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  9. rat7_mobile

    rat7_mobile Well-Known Member

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    Here is what I notice with this train

    1) never go faster than 80KM
    2) when reaching 2000M, set the engine to zero
    3) when at about 200M, set the brake to SERVICE, and then hope it will stop in the colour squared
    4) after the passenger are loaded, press the coma-point, until the brake pressure is back
    5) then go through the gears to get speed 1 = 10KM, 2 = 20KM, etc....

    Most of the time I either stop at the front edge of the dock, or way past the dock, with no way to make any correction as the colour square disappeared , and the game is prompting to load passenger

    Also it is impossible to maintain the schedule, the brake is an all or nothing control
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2020
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  10. rat7_mobile

    rat7_mobile Well-Known Member

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    I use the only locomotive available in the journey so far, and it is the normal NORTH AMERICAN model, I have not seen any others yet
     
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  11. rat7_mobile

    rat7_mobile Well-Known Member

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    The light you are showin, never urn ON in this train, and I have not notice it in the CXS, or the CN train
     
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  12. Olaf the Snowman

    Olaf the Snowman Well-Known Member

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    1. 80 miles per hour not kmh (80mph is about 130kmh)

    2. I’m assuming you mean 2000 metres (1.25 miles) from station? If so, depends on many factors. Personally, I would have no problem of keep powering up to just before I start braking for the station (about 0.5-0.8 miles from station) particularly when stations are close together and you are nowhere near line-speed (80mph). Ideally, give a few seconds before shutting off power to then applying the brakes so that the amps go to zero and the traction motors are ready to act as generators for dynamic braking.

    3. Like in point 2, the reason why I’m even questioning whether you mean M for metres is because there is no where you’re going to stop in 200 metres if doing any proper speed (I.e. 50mph+). You’re already halfway down the platform. You should brake between 0.5-0.8 mile from station if doing between 60-80mph.

    4. I don’t really understand because I don’t think there is any interlock (apart from the visual door locked indication) with the brakes when you release the doors. Brake pressure should remain as it is. Oh, actually, I guess you’re just leaving it in ‘service’ so that brake pipe pressure gets completely vented to zero. Just secure the train by having the brake cylinder pressure around 30psi and then place automatic air brake controller into ‘lap’ to maintain pressure.

    5. Yes, but not quite like that. The first power notch you should use is 3 from a stop start. Only use 1 or 2 to maintain speed. As speed increases and you see the ammeter start losing amps, go to the next notch of power. Roughly, notch 3 from a stop start. As soon as you start moving, move to notch 5. 10mph= notch 6, 15mph= notch 7, 20mph= notch 8. This is not a rule but just a general guide.


    I see your problem. It is manual lapping so once you have the desired brake cylinder pressure, you need to move the brake controller back into ‘lap’ in order to maintain the brake cylinder pressure.

    As a general guide, put the brake into service and wait the brake pipe pressure reaches 100psi which corresponds to about 20psi of brake cylinder pressure and then put back to lap. Then as you get closer to the station, you can increase/decrease as required. You shouldn’t have to use more than 30psi or certainly no more than 40psi which corresponds to a brake pipe pressure of 96 and 92 psi respectively (approx). It can be tricky using manual lapping brake but you need to have parameters otherwise you’re just going to confuse yourself and get yourself into a tangle. By parameters, I mean making ‘ brake steps’ for yourself even though it is fully variable. E.g. 20psi on this is about a step 2 on a HST, 30psi is about a step 3 on a HST. Remember, the final impact of the train is very important and more so than being 100% accurate. You should finish in a rising brake pipe (brakes releasing) and I try to finish at about a brake cylinder pressure of 10psi if not less. If in the locomotive, use the ‘bail off’ function on the independent brake to release the air brake on the locomotive to allow for a nice stop. You don’t want to stop in a heap (BANG, BANG, BANG, etc... as each coach stops in turn) and with passengers being thrown across the coach as they walk towards the door. (yes, I’m looking at you fellow gamers on YouTube who finish in 60psi (etc....) just to get that 1 yard stop :mad:)
     
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  13. rat7_mobile

    rat7_mobile Well-Known Member

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    I mean 80KM, in Canada we use M for distance and KM for speed

    How do you set the pressure for the brakes, there is only REALEASE, HOLDING (not is happening here), LAP ( again nothing happening here), SERVICE (which apply brakes, but also run until the hissing sound stop), and EMERGENCY (which stops everything and can not be recovered)

    PS. I tried your tip above, and once the EMRGENCY is set, it can not be recovered except by restarting the game

    I hope I can get throught this Journey and get to a travel that I can do

    Thanks for all the help guys
     
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  14. Olaf the Snowman

    Olaf the Snowman Well-Known Member

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    You need to put it into SERVICE, let some of the brakes come on and then put it back to ‘LAP’ to maintain that braking force. That’s the simplest way I can put it.

    I think the first part of the journey is the tutorial which goes through how to recover once you’ve had an emergency stop. Have you done the tutorial?
     
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  15. rat7_mobile

    rat7_mobile Well-Known Member

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    you mentioned some PSI to be set, but all I can see are 2 big gauge, in your picture above, they are above the light you cricled

    Those gauge are reacting when using the brake and placing it in SERVICE, when in SERVICE, on the left gauge the red arrow remains (it never move) at 140, the white one goes all the way to 0, on the left gauge, the red arrow goes a little above 60 and will not move back to 0 until brake are released, the white one also goes all the way to 0, and about that time the hissing sound stop.

    When I use the LAP there is no braking, and if I use the SERVICE and then LAP there is almost no braking, and if I go again into SERVICE, then the hissing start again an will stop when the train stop

    PS. I did the Journey from start, but when I restarted the game because the EMERGNCY would not let the train go forward or backward again, the Journey just contnued

    And I also tried the manual training from the game menu, but again the EMERGENCY just shut the train down
     
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  16. rat7_mobile

    rat7_mobile Well-Known Member

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    It seems that the journey is not doable

    I was finally able to get to the last station, sort of, I was 1000M, from it stopped by a red light, and when I looked using the F8 camera, I saw that there was another train in the spot that I should be at, I could see the colour square undernate, but for some reason it was not moving out, even though the track was clear in both direction for it to leave, after 30 minuted wait I just quit the game.

    So either it is the loading of passenger or another train in the wrong spot, but this journey is completely impossible to do
     
  17. Disintegration7

    Disintegration7 Well-Known Member

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    It would help if you mention which service you're running, as that can make a difference. I'm not sure if there any CalTrain services that are impossible due to bugs, etc, but knowing the specific one in question would help narrow down the problem.

    Unfortunately the signalling does get buggy from time to time, especially if you're running really behind schedule, which sounds like might be the case here with that red signal. It almost sounds like you were so far behind that it spawned the return trip of the train you were driving, thus blocking your path. Just a guess.

    Otherwise, Olaf has given a lot of good advice. IMO the manual lapping brakes on the F40/Cabcar are a little tricky to master, and the only way to get better is to practice.

    One thing that threw me off at first was that the dynamic brakes engage as you slow to a stop, which sounds a lot like the engine revving up, so i'd panic and think i fogot to throttle down. I'd apply more brake and end up stopping way short. Again you need to practice to get used to it.
     
  18. Olaf the Snowman

    Olaf the Snowman Well-Known Member

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    The left gauge red arrow is the main reservoir. It should always remain at 140psi unless the engine has shutdown OR main compressor not running OR leak in air system in which case you won’t be going anywhere. You can essentially ignore the left gauge as the game doesn’t simulate fault and failures and even if you shut the engine down, I’ve found the main reservoir to remain at 140psi.


    As I said, ignore the left gauge. I’m not going to bore you of the explanation of the equalising reservoir. Just look at the right gauge for now as you’re new to this.

    The red arrow on the right gauge is brake cylinder pressure which basically determines how much brake you want the train to apply. In other words, how quickly do you want to stop. When the brakes are released, the red arrow will be at 0.
    You will notice when you select SERVICE, the red arrow will increase from 0 to just above 60psi if you don’t LAP it.

    The white arrow on the right gauge is the brake pipe pressure which is at 110psi when brakes are released. When you select SERVICE, you will notice the white arrow will decrease from 110psi to 0 if you don’t LAP it.

    To summarise, when SERVICE is selected, brake pipe pressure will decrease (white arrow, right gauge) which then causes brake cylinder pressure (red arrow, right gauge) to increase. In very simple terms, that hissing sound is air leaving the brake pipe (hence brake pipe pressure decreases) and going to the brake cylinders to cause brakes to apply (hence brake cylinder pressure increases). For anyone else reading whose jumping out their seats thinking “that’s wrong,” I know this isn’t technically correct but I’m just trying to explain in very basic terms without trying to cause confusion (it involves equalising reservoir if you want the correct explanation).


    I guess you’re just leaving in SERVICE for 1 or 2 seconds and then going straight into LAP? As I said previously, go into SERVICE and let the white arrow on right gauge (brake pipe pressure) drop to 100 psi and then move to LAP to maintain that pressure. At 100psi, the red arrow on the right gauge will move from 0 to about 20psi. And then let’s say you need more brake, move to SERVICE again until red arrow goes down to 96psi (white arrow will be about 30psi) and then move back to LAP to maintain. Generally speaking, hit the start of the station at about 30-35mph and red arrow between 20-30psi, you’ll stop nicely.

    LAP maintains the brake cylinder pressure and brake pipe pressure. In other words, it maintains the braking but it won’t cause braking. So if the brakes are released and you just go to LAP, nothing is going to happen as there is nothing to maintain.


    I’ve had no problems personally so don’t think it’s a bug. Are you able to either record/screen capture or take some pictures so we can see what the problem is?
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2020
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  19. Factor41

    Factor41 Well-Known Member

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    As Olaf has described, you can think of the gauge as giving you an indication of the braking force (the lower the number, the higher the force) and your control lever, rather than controlling the pressure directly as it does on more modern trains, has positions to increase (SERVICE), maintain (LAP) or reduce (RELEASE) that braking force. If you move to service and leave it there, it's like a tap, so the braking force will continue to increase until you have maximum braking, then if you move to lap, it will just stay there, so if you want to control the braking force, you need to move between SERVICE and RELEASE, holding the pressure at LAP when you have the right braking force to hit your marker.

    It might be worth also having a go in the Class 101 on NTP to help you understand what's happening - that also has manual lapping, but it's old and creaky so everything happens a bit more slowly (although that also has manual gears so there's more to think about).

    If you want to play Peninsula Corridor with self-lapping brakes - the Baby Bullet DLC has you covered. ;)
     
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  20. rat7_mobile

    rat7_mobile Well-Known Member

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    The class 101, if I understand it correctly is the one with the stick shift, and bakes that are all or nothing

    I did the entire journey on the route that it is on, and barely was able to get higher than first gear, the shifting mechanism is very querky to work on a computer, it might be easier to work on in real life though
     
  21. rat7_mobile

    rat7_mobile Well-Known Member

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    When you do the journey, it is one of the first run. This specific run when you start you have to wait at the beginning for another train to park 2 track away from where you are parked, the run is from San Francisco to San Jose
     
  22. rat7_mobile

    rat7_mobile Well-Known Member

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    I would like to thank everybody for the help and support here
     
  23. Disintegration7

    Disintegration7 Well-Known Member

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    Hmmm we're getting closer...when you go to start it up in Journey mode, what is it called (e.g "Californian Commuter", "268 San Francisco- San Jose")?
     
  24. Factor41

    Factor41 Well-Known Member

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    They're not all or nothing, but they're manually lapped, like the CAT. Once you figure it out, it's no problem to get it flying along in 4th and as long as you give yourself plenty of time, you should be able to get it stopped with some degree of accuracy. You just need to keep an eye on the pressure gauge and make sure you switch back to lap when you have the right braking force. I'd recommend revisiting the tutorials and really focusing on what it's telling you with regard to the braking process.
     
  25. Trim

    Trim Active Member

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    There are two vital things to understand with brakes that have a "lap" position:
    1. The normal position of the brake handle while you are braking should be "lap". While you are not braking, it should be in "running" or "release" (the name varies depending on the type of brake controller).
    2. You need to look at the pressure/vacuum gauge while you are making a brake application.
    With the class 101, the gauge you need to look at is the brake pipe gauge, the bottom right dial in the HUD. I suspect that with the F40, it is better to look at the equalising reservoir gauge, which should be the white needle in the top right dial in the HUD, but I don't have Peninsular Corridor, so I am not sure. Alternatively, you could look at the brake pipe gauge, which should be the white needle in the bottom dial. In either case, you need to notice and memorise the position of the needle when the brakes are released. To brake, you should do the following.
    • Before you want to start braking, move the brake handle to "lap". This can be done by pressing the / key on a keyboard, but with the class 101, I usually just use the ' and ; keys.
    • When you want to start braking, move the handle to "apply" or "service" for a short period of time, typically a couple of seconds, then move it back to "lap". While the handle is in "apply" or "service", you should be watching the fall in pressure or vacuum in the brake pipe or equalising reservoir. In the class 101, which has vacuum brakes, the vacuum needs to fall a certain amount before the brakes do anything at all, but beyond this point, the brake force is more or less proportional to how much the vacuum in the brake pipe has been reduced. With the F40, I suspect the brakes start to apply immediately the brake pipe pressure is reduced, and the braking force is proportional to the the fall in the brake pipe pressure, but only up to a certain amount. Once the brake pipe pressure has fallen to about two-thirds its starting value, there will not be any further increase in braking force.
    • Wait a couple of seconds for the air/vacuum to even out down the train before judging whether the deceleration is too little or too great.
    • If you aren't slowing down enough, move the handle to "apply or "service" for a short period of time, again watching the gauge fall. Here, a short period of time might be a fraction of a second - it depends how much more you want to slow down. Then move the handle back to "lap" again.
    • If you are slowing down too fast, move the handle briefly to "release", watching the gauge rise, then move the handle back to "lap". Again, a fraction of a second might be all that is needed. [I assume the F40 allows partial release of brakes; this was not possible with the original Westinghouse automatic brake with a single triple valve per car, but most railways adopted a better system in the mid-twentieth century]
    • Keep on making short applications or releases as needed till you have stopped. It is a good idea to have the handle in release at the moment of stopping, to lessen the jerk.
    • Ideally, apply the locomotive brake while stopped and fully release the automatic brake. With the 101, you can hold the train on about 17 inches of vacuum with the handle in "lap"; there is no need to put the handle in "apply" or to dump all the vacuum.
    • When you want the train to set off again, ensure the brake handle is in "running" or "release".
    It's not bad with a keyboard (it's horrible with a mouse, but so are brakes). You need to pay attention to the engine revs in the HUD and the gear number in the centre of the rev dial:
    • Keep Ctrl-D pressed to select first gear
    • Press A to engage first notch. As soon as the train starts moving, you can rapidly notch up to 2, 3 and 4, also by pressing A
    • When the engine revs are near the top of the yellow part of the dial, put the engines into idle by keeping D pressed.
    • When the engine revs have dropped below the yellow part of the gauge, you can change gear by pressing Ctrl-A.
    • Check that the number 2 appears in the centre of the engine revs dial. If you've accidentally changed to 3, 4 or -, then press Ctrl-D to get back to 2.
    • Press A to apply power. Usually you can just keep A pressed till you are in fourth notch.
    • When the engine revs are near the top of the yellow part of the dial, repeat the sequence of engine into idle, watch the revs fall, select the new gear (and check that it is the right one in the HUD) and then apply power.
    The class 101 has a freewheel, so you can keep the gearbox in whatever gear you happen to be in as you slow down and stop, but you should put it into neutral (Ctrl-A) when you are stopped. If you need to apply power at low speed, you may need to select second or third gear by pressing Ctrl-D..
     
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  26. Factor41

    Factor41 Well-Known Member

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    I'd add to that - keep an eye on the both the pressure gauge and the accelerometer bar in the HUD. This is a really handy visual guide to your deceleration, since you can't feel the forces you would in the real world to know when your braking force is at the level you need.

    When I start my braking process, I normally kill the throttle and set the gear back to 1 so that it's ready for the next start or if I'm looking like stopping too early, I can release the brakes and give it some beans to get a bit further down the platform!
     
  27. rat7_mobile

    rat7_mobile Well-Known Member

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    I found out that it is best on the Peninsula Corridor and with the stickshift train to never exceed 40KM, that way you rarely overspeed, and you can fairly easily stop the train
     
  28. Olaf the Snowman

    Olaf the Snowman Well-Known Member

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    40kilometres per hour? Which is 25miles per hour? Good luck maintain schedule with that if you’re doing it for the whole journey.. If you mean speed at the start of the platform ramp, it’s defensive but reasonable.
     
  29. rat7_mobile

    rat7_mobile Well-Known Member

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    no for the whole run, otherwise all I can do is to keep stopping in the middle of nowhere, and restart

    Even if you put the throttle to zero, it does not slow down, and in some instance it even accelarate
     
  30. Factor41

    Factor41 Well-Known Member

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    Definitely sounds like you're doing it wrong - no issues getting up to speed or getting stopped with these trains. Did you do the tutorial?
     
  31. rat7_mobile

    rat7_mobile Well-Known Member

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    To do the journe you have to do the tutorial

    But when I apply the brake, there is no way to undo the applying until it is completely empty, so you can not just slow the train down a little, on the California train, that means either brake or emergency, which completely stop the train until it is restarted, so the best work around I found is to drive slow and it works well this way
     
  32. Disintegration7

    Disintegration7 Well-Known Member

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    Honestly you should never need to use the emergency brake in this game as long as you're following speed limits.

    Regarding acceleration with 0 throttle, you have to take into account gradient (on the speedometer HUD, there's a little widget showing a percentage (0.0, 0.1, 0.5, etc) and a visual indicator showing downhill, flat, or uphill). Even a seemingly small gradient (0.5%) can have a pretty big effect, while 1% is major and 2% and up are extreme.

    The lapping brakes have been explained repeatedly above, but i really recommend redoing the tutorial until you feel more comfortable. Another option is to start a service, get to a point where you have a big distance between signals and just practice getting up to speed and slowing to a stop over and over again.

    Good luck!
     
  33. Disintegration7

    Disintegration7 Well-Known Member

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    Btw this post got me to give the 101 another shot (i had originally thought it too fiddly with the gears). Now it's one of my favorites!! Thanks for that!
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2020
  34. rat7_mobile

    rat7_mobile Well-Known Member

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    The % or the other mean use for elevation means nothing clear, I learn that an incline is in degrees.

    The lap thing, was explained and very well, I do understand the principal, but it is the execution that is not doable, on the Peninsula, when using the brake it is extremely easy to not be in the service and end up in the emergency, and the getting back to the lap position, get back to the release but by that time I am already stopped, because there is no more air pressure.
     
  35. rat7_mobile

    rat7_mobile Well-Known Member

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    I am glad to have been useful for something
     
  36. Disintegration7

    Disintegration7 Well-Known Member

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    Ok i see: i looked up a couple
    1%= 0.6°
    2%= 1.15°

    I think there MIGHT be a way to switch the display in the game to degrees, but i've never tried because i'm used to percentage.
     
  37. rat7_mobile

    rat7_mobile Well-Known Member

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    Thank you for the information
     
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  38. Trim

    Trim Active Member

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    The game does not offer degrees, but you can switich it to the British system of horizintal distance travelled per unit of vertical distance, so 1% becomes 1:100 (1 foot/metre rise per 100 feet/mtres of horizontal distance) and 2% becomes 1:50 (1 foot/metre rise per 50 feet/metres of horizontal distance). Being British, this is what I grew up learning so it is what I use in game. With this system, the smaller the number the steeper the gradient, which might seem very odd if you are not used to it; but the numbers tend to be in a more sensible range than percentages, so far as railway gradients are concerned.

    It is the French who are deprived, since ther own system of permille or millimetres per metre is not included in the game. This is the gradient in percent multiplied by 10, but it produces better numbers for railways. 1% becomes 10‰ and 2% becomes 20‰,
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2020
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  39. Thorgred

    Thorgred Active Member

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    just use fast short key presses to go from lap to service and back to lap
    that is the way i use the brakes
    do not hold key down too long
    braking is lap with short service boosts until you get the just amount of braking
    if braking is to fast just do a short release boost and back to lapping

    it just takes a little to get used to driving the F40PH
     
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  40. Rudolf

    Rudolf Well-Known Member

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    I can reccomend to reassign the keys for the gear. I use Page up and page down for them, much more relaxed driving!
     
  41. Factor41

    Factor41 Well-Known Member

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    I think the thing you have to focus on with the F40PH-2CAT is that, unlike in the 101, you don't have control over the rate of pressure application. Where the 101 is like opening a tap, and you can open it more to add pressure more quickly, the F40 just has the service position, so if you press the button more to try and add pressure quicker, you end up emergency stopping.

    I recorded a couple of stops in the Gallery Cab Car which might be helpful to you. Same process applies to the F40 end, but there's just a little more delay on this end. These are on PS4 Pro with DS4.

    In the first, I shed most of my speed early on, then release the pressure, roll into the station (as I have plenty of time) and then apply a little brake at the end to bring the train to a gentle stop at the marker (499pts).


    In the second, coming in from 77mph, I do some early braking to meet the 50mph limit. At 1:20 I brake a bit more, realise I've overdone it, and release the pressure! Again, I've got plenty of time to make the stop so bring it in gently with a little bit more pressure at the end to hit the marker (500pts).


    Keep an eye on the acceleration gauge in the HUD, the needle on the right brake pressure dial, the controls I'm applying and listen to the air to know when I'm applying or releasing pressure. With a bit of practice, you should be able to stop within a few yards of the marker at every stop. Top tip: don't leave it too late to brake!
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2020
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  42. Olaf the Snowman

    Olaf the Snowman Well-Known Member

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    Nice videos.
    I like that you have a defensive technique and not overly aggressive when it comes to station stops. You didn’t use more than 30/35psi of brake cylinder pressure which reflects this (talking about the final deceleration into the station not the other stuff). You did have to release the brakes and reapply which should be avoided though unless you’re coming to a precision stop board or a station that you have little margin of error due to short platform. It comes with experience but if you are doing only 50mph, you don’t need to start braking till you’re about 600-700yards away and even then that’s being conservative. As I said earlier, it might help if you have parameters rather than just applying and hoping. I.e. 20psi is about a step 2, 30psi is about a step 3, etc...

    The other thing is that even though you didn’t ‘dump’ the train by finishing with the brakes applying more and more, you didn’t release them either and finished in quite a high pressure- about 30psi. Just to compare it to Voyager because you obviously don’t like Voyagers :))), that’s like finishing in about 40/50% pressure so you’re definitely going to get people stumbling over as they are walking towards the doors ready to alight. Not to mention that as this is a locomotive and coaches, you will stop in a bunch. You should always finish in a rising brake pipe (brakes releasing) and try to finish between 10-20psi brake cylinder pressure. It’s a shame because you did so well up to that point, all you had to do was in the last few seconds put it into “release.”

    Stopping precisely is not that important because nearly all the platforms on this route are extremely long. I know it’s tempting for the maximum points (500 points) but stopping smoothly is far more important and as long as you’re with a few yards, you’re doing great. As I say, if you really do need to stop precisely for a shortish platform, just kill the speed, release at 5mph or whatever, crawl towards the stop board and then reapply which is what you pretty much have done. Your 2 videos are definitely the better ones I’ve seen so keep it up.

    As always, I’m not trying to be a kill joy so enjoy the game however you want. :)

    I’ve found some old videos.
    First video: Applied 20psi, hit the station at 35mph, increased to 30psi, recharged the brake pipe by putting it into ‘holding’ when I know I won’t need any more brake, and then brought it back gradually as approached stop board and finished in about 12psi.

    Second video: much more aggressive and didn’t even to mean to actually but just shows you what can be done with experience. But key point here that I’m trying to get across, even though I came in extremely hard, I still managed to get a very nice finishing impact with a rising brake pipe and once again about 20psi finish. Effectively, I hit the station at about 50mph if it was a normal size platform. Unfortunately, I didn’t realise it was a short platform till I got close which is why I had to use a lot more brake than I wanted to.




     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2020
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  43. Factor41

    Factor41 Well-Known Member

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    Useful feedback, thanks. I suppose I was playing for points over comfort (and quite like the thought of those virtual passengers all ending up in a heap by the door) but it's nice to know what I should be doing so I'll keep that in mind. :)
     
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