Can somebody do a step-by-step tutorial for the brain-damaged on how to use these effectively with mouse and keyboard? I find the Class 101 and F40PH practically undriveable because of them (especially on NTP with all its multiple speed changes and grades). Yes, I understand them at a conceptual level- apply until x pressure, back to Lap to keep it. But in practical terms I simply cannot get any sort of accurate control, whether with the ; and ' keys,, or in-cab with the mouse.
That's pretty much it. There is also a key to put the lever back in the middle directly, that might help you.
My solution is to make sure I have notifications turned on. That way, it is clear when I am in the apply, lap, release, and run positions. I also program the brake keys to a pair of mouse buttons so I can gently click them and have a little bit more control. It is still a bit tricky and sometimes difficult not to overshoot; I often find myself still applying or even releasing when I meant to lap. Smokebox ’s TS FEF and Connie have easy to manage “gaps” that correspond to handle notches. In other locos, the gaps are trickier. Regardless, I am a big fan of the extra control and throwback feel of brake lapping!
Press the apply key to open the tap and let the air escape. The longer you press it, the faster it will escape, thus applying the brakes sooner. One you are happy with the pressure, press the key to set the lever back to lap. The same goes for the brakes release key. I usually start with about 12-15 inches at 0.6 miles to go and then finetune it to stop where I want and account for the grade. Bonus points if you stop while the brakes are releasing Well, not really, but it's more confortable for the passengers. Wanna know why? Try stopping your car or bike without releasing the brakes as you come to a stop and you'll find out
My own preference depends on the type of manually lapped brake, with the 101 or one with graduated release I generally will drop it to about 10"Hg at about 1000 yards (at 60-65mph) unless I'm on a gradient in which case I'll drop it to 5"Hg, then with the handle in the lap position. |If I feel I'm not slowing quickly enough I'll drop the brake further, or If I'm slowing too quickly I'll ease it back a bit. Then as I'm just approaching the stopping point I put the handle to a slow release just as I pull up. With the 101 especially its best to bleed off speed quickly by making a harsh application and then easing it and getting it down to about 30mph where the brakes are more effective and hence more controllable. The F40ph and the 26EL brakes are a bit funny though given they don't really have a proper graduated release, any release requires something of you to release and then apply the brakes again which takes time so its best to just apply. In that units case I generally make a moderate application and come in a lot hotter and apply more brake as required since releasing them is a pain, then only as I approach the stopping point will I move the hand to Hold to recharge the brake pipe and then hopefully shuttle between Hold and Release to control the stop.
Brake Cylinder, BC on the HUD. Edit: I was wrong. It's the brake pipe. WHen the brakes are fully released on the 101 it reads 21. Edit 2: It's the left needle, it says Train Pipe on it.
A way to think about it is like a water tank. (apologies for a horrible illustration) If your water tank is full, your brakes don't slow you down. If you move the brakes to "apply", you open the lower tap. When you leave it in some percentage of apply, the water goes out (air goes out, brakes apply), the more open it is, the faster you lose water (more "apply", faster let out of the air, faster application). So even if it's open just 1 %, in some time the tank will be empty (no air, brakes fully applied). When you move the lever to the "release" section, you open the other tap and fill the tank. When brakes are fully released, the lever in "release" does nothing (the tank is full). Definitely bind something on your keyboard to "move to lap", so you have a key that makes the level of application stay the same. The pressures depend on the selected vehicle, but this is the basic principle, hopefully, that helps. F40 IIRC also has a "hold" position that keeps the brakes applied but allows you to get air back, ideal for stations. You stay with brakes applied, but get air ready for departure (like a second water tank to fill the main fast).
Thanks, Monder. Yes, I already understand, conceptually, how they work. I understand what the controls do. What I was looking for was practical, tutorial-level advice on how to make it all happen using PC keyboard controls.
I prefer to use the keyboard as with the mouse it is too easy to go past the lap point and release/apply. And it is practice, practice, practice
The funny thing is, the 363 has manually lapped brakes and I have no problem with them, because the keyboard controls are implemented differently (hold to apply, release to lap)
Does it depend on how your keyboard is set up in the PC with the key repeat rates for typing and such or is it totally separate from that in the game? I don’t play TSW on a PC but I’ve had issues in the past with other applications due to having a very fast key repeat that made things tricky to manage.
