Saluda Grade - Locomotives Won't Load

Discussion in 'Technical Reports' started by V0latyle, Oct 24, 2023.

  1. V0latyle

    V0latyle Member

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    I've tried several different scenarios on Saluda Grade, but no matter what I do, the locomotives don't generate any tractive effort regardless of the throttle setting. Releasing the brakes just results in the consist rolling back down the hill. I don't have this issue on other routes. Anyone experience a similar issue and know how to fix it?
     
  2. WoodlandTracks

    WoodlandTracks Active Member

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    Perhaps you are fighting the Saluda Grade.
     
  3. V0latyle

    V0latyle Member

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    I mean, I didn't expect it to be easy, but...

    Reverser to forward, apply independent, throttle up to Notch 4, no load on ammeter; release automatic brake, train just starts rolling backwards down the hill and amps are still zero even when I release the independent.

    What am I doing wrong?

    Did the exact same thing on Stevens Pass with the ES44DC, I forget whether it actually shows amp load unitl the train's moving but I had no trouble starting up the grade.
     
  4. WoodlandTracks

    WoodlandTracks Active Member

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    I have Saluda Grade but did not fire it up yet, which I did just now . . .

    Tested pulling away in first three Career Scenarios, Belmond... / Bound... / Brevard... and did not have any problems.

    I set reverser, go to notch 4, release loco brake, release train brake. Not sure that is realistic, but hey, is a game and is fun :)

    Gameplay settings are as below . . .

    [​IMG]
     
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  5. V0latyle

    V0latyle Member

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    Pretty sure mine are the same.

    Did you notice whether the amps start building before the train starts moving? That's how I play TSW3 with underpowered consists like the Clinchfield RR "Limited Power" scenario. Grab notches until the amps are nearly in the red, then release the brakes. I'm not sure if TSC works the same way, I think the amps don't actually read anything until you're moving
     
  6. WoodlandTracks

    WoodlandTracks Active Member

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    Amps go up after releasing the Trainbrake. And I needed notch 6, not 4 on the first scenario.
     
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  7. mfeets

    mfeets Well-Known Member

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    It's the way these "pro-range" locomotives were scripted-and is not at all accurate to how the real things work. You should be able to get amps with the brakes on, but the scripting on these engines doesn't allow that until the brakes are at a certain PSI, for which you have to fully release the brakes to get. My advice would be to just get the Searchlight Simulations NS SD40-2s, those actually operate realistically.
     
  8. triznya.andras

    triznya.andras Well-Known Member

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    It's the default behavior of the simulation, and / or casually copy-pasted ever since 2007!
    According to the above it can be overridden but generally the power cuts out / comes online when the brakes pass a threshold. I would say universally. In the sim. Be it the Kuju Class 37, the SD40-2, or virtually any other. (Even more so with combined handle which is not really a thing in the US, maybe with some lighter passenger stock.)

    I've read it somewhere that it's sort of a protection to protect the traction (motors, brakes, wheels, the whole thing). Although I most usually just use minimum reduction, might be a rule to always leave trains in full service. But I've seen a picture (can't find again) with a DPU casually rolling its wheels (and eyes) and digging deep holes in the rail. Quite difficult to dig it out. (Train was stopped but accidentally left with a notch active which would make sense on a grade while stopping to keep stretched, and the assumption is that said DPU either broke free eventually or never got to stop its wheels anyway - casual wheel spin. Notch 1 tends to be very powerful at low speeds with US locos.)
     
  9. mfeets

    mfeets Well-Known Member

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    Devs can override it by making new simulation for their models; but DTM/HIS don’t bother to put in the time to do so, and just stick the original blueprint from older stuff in every single engine. But hey, “Pro Range,” am I right!

    Seriously though, invest in Searchlight Simulations SD40-2s. You’ll never touch the crappy DTM/RSC/Kuju one again.
     
  10. Spikee1975

    Spikee1975 Guest

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  11. Spikee1975

    Spikee1975 Guest

    There's no "default" behaviour. It's just how you set up the blueprint. There's a blueprint parameter at which brake cylinder pressure the power will be cut out. For electric locos this is important. Not for US Diesels pulling heavy trains. They need to be powered against the brakes to prevent from rolling back on a grade.
     
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  12. OldAlaskaGuy

    OldAlaskaGuy Well-Known Member

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    I have no issue in applying power against brakes in Saluda grade with the high or low hoods.
     
  13. V0latyle

    V0latyle Member

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    Sorry for the noob question, how do I install this?

    Just to show I'm not lying, this is the Belmont Empties scenario. Waited for signal to clear, throttled up to notch 6, released the brakes, and started rolling backwards down the hill with zero amps. Trying to figure out how to share the screenshot
     
    Last edited: Oct 26, 2023
  14. V0latyle

    V0latyle Member

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    For some reason it only lets me paste an image if it's a new post

    upload_2023-10-25_18-53-54.png
     
  15. kilt46

    kilt46 Well-Known Member

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    I completed this pack with no changes to the DLC. I seem to remember having to hold the dynamic brake until I got the amps up to the biting point (similar to stick shift style driving).

    Let dynamic brake fully charge before you do anything. Once pressure is stabilized, set direction forward and bail off the loco brake. Apply throttle and release dynamic brake.
     
    Last edited: Oct 26, 2023
  16. triznya.andras

    triznya.andras Well-Known Member

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    Kilt, what you type doesn't make any sense. Dynamic brakes are mutually exclusive with throttle, since both use the traction motors but in different ways. Also, dynamic brakes have no pressure element, however require a reverser direction. And while you could say "release" dynamic brakes, it uses a power handle (either the main or its own) so it's more like turn off. Didn't you just mean train brakes?

    Normally what I do with uphill starts is I apply notch one, release the brakes, and once the power comes on, I watch my speed and keep adding power to ensure I don't roll back. My consist may as it stretches out, but that's not a concern. So much power coming online all at once is a surefire way to break couplers. (Of course, if the power is online before the brakes release, I can do the same and it will start stretching the consist a little. Which, in a few cases, can be a problem on its own, I often read that stationary trains sit in a little and require way more tractive effort to start up.)

    V0latyle, besides trying what I described, make sure neither the dynamic brakes or loco brakes aren't on. Usually that locks the power handle entirely, but it might not. With older models there is also just one power handle, and a power mode selector (i/k).
    At worst, just wait until the brake pressure is minimal and then keep applying power, it should come online. Very minor rolling back (0.1 mph) momentarily should be okay. I mean, modern trains have just one combined handle. You can't have power until you release everything, and yes, our trams roll back when starting uphill.
     
  17. WoodlandTracks

    WoodlandTracks Active Member

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    Why not ?
     
  18. OldAlaskaGuy

    OldAlaskaGuy Well-Known Member

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    What kind of response are you looking for?
     
  19. Spikee1975

    Spikee1975 Guest

    You cannot "hold" the dynamic brake AND generate power - the Selector only allows you to either Power or DynBrake. You're talkin about the Indy (loco) brake.

    To the OP, have you released the Independent Brake at all?

    Kilt, of course you can still drive the locos. But it's not realistic, your couplers would surely break if you go to a high notch while your train is dragged backward and suddenly there's like 300 kN force (or more) on the couplers.

    Realistic hill start: Fully apply Indy (applied by default in this DLC), release Autobrake (not simulated here: watch EOTD pressure or Airflow gauge - move before the last car has its brake released, usually at around 80 psi EOT), notch up to 3 or 4 depending on grade, slowly release the Indy until your loco starts moving, eliminate slack (couplers fully stretched) then fully release the Indy. Watching the Ammeter, at 10 mph notch up to 6, 15 mph to 7, 20 mph Run 8!
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 26, 2023
  20. Spikee1975

    Spikee1975 Guest

    Just unpack the zip and drag'n'drop the "Assets" folder onto your "RailWorks" folder.
     
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  21. WoodlandTracks

    WoodlandTracks Active Member

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    Since you should have the issue (stock out of the box behavior from what I understand from the specialists) I wonder what is wrong with your setup or what you changed.
     
  22. kilt46

    kilt46 Well-Known Member

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    Let 'automatic train brake' fully charge before you do anything. Once pressure is stabilized, set direction forward and release 'independent brake'. Apply throttle and release 'automatic train brake'. As the train brake reduces to a certain point (pressure fades) there appears to be enough forward thrust to enable the train to then move forward. I used this method in ALL of the Saluda Grade scenarios and finished them all. I am in no way a train expert. I only know what worked with these assets. If the response of the train doesn't mimic real life then I wouldn't know.

    Respectfully
     
  23. Spikee1975

    Spikee1975 Guest

    You apply power before releasing the Indy (and fully charged brakepipe at EOT) IRL that's the point. Else your train would already be rolling backward, and then throttling up would result in spending an hour replacing a broken knuckle :)

    Of course there's two types of players here, those who just play the game, and those who want to simulate the real thing (buying "Pro-Range" DLC ;) )



    For me that is actually the fascination of US railroading - it's all about mastering physics.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 26, 2023
  24. Spikee1975

    Spikee1975 Guest

    This is a valid question, I also don't understand why it would work for you.

    Default Saluda behaviour (no amps)
    11.png

    Patched:
    12.png

    Btw, can anyone confirm the ~40 psi loco brake cyl pressure on a full service?

    Edit: Seems ok, the TSW GP9 has a placard. But can you see what's wrong in this image? In the end, only Run 8 does it right :D
    23.png
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 26, 2023
  25. V0latyle

    V0latyle Member

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    SD40-2 has separate dynamic + power handles, and they're interlocked.

    The non Dash 2s had a selector lever: 1-4, Off, and B for dynamic brake, similar to the transition lever in the old F units.
    It just rolls down the hill, power never comes in. I'm beginning to think there's something wrong with the files. I only have this problem on Saluda Grade, not any other route.
     
    Last edited: Oct 26, 2023
  26. kilt46

    kilt46 Well-Known Member

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    At the start of the scenarios does the auto brake fully charge itself if you touch nothing?
     
  27. WoodlandTracks

    WoodlandTracks Active Member

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    Just post a video so people can spot what is different and what might be wrong.
     
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  28. kilt46

    kilt46 Well-Known Member

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    upload_2023-10-27_16-44-54.png
    This worked for me. I have completed all scenarios on both Locos. Whether I am doing it right I have no idea.

    Good luck
     
  29. V0latyle

    V0latyle Member

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    Yep. Brake handle is in Full Service. Brake cylinder pressure builds to about 45 PSI

    I applied the patch linked by Spikee1975, amps build before releasing brakes and locos take the load, starting up the hill in notch 6.

    Odd that they didn't model the control, fuel pump, and generator field switches on the console. All 3 would have to be on.

    Now if I could imrpove this abysmal frame rate...
     
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2023
  30. WoodlandTracks

    WoodlandTracks Active Member

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    After c. 15 years of "Railworks" my experience is that throwing more money at it gives the best result.
     
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