Since there is no manual, I'm pretty lost here. Almost every time I move the Mu2a into Lead or dead and the cut out into freight on the Sd40, I immediately get an open PCS and can't release the brakes. How do I set up SD40 brakes on Clinchfield without opening PCS? And once open, how do I close it? How do you include PCS on a route and not have any explanation about it either in tutorials or a manual? At least PC covered PCS.
Standard procedure: Throttle to idle Reverser to neutral Auto brake to emergency Independent brake to full application Wait 60 seconds Release auto brake PCS light should no longer be on at this point Adjust reverser as needed, release independent brake and set off
Got it. Why do my SD40s always start with pcs open as soon as I switch into lead or dead? I've even tried moving the auto brake out of handle off before changing the mu2a and it still opens pcs as soon as I set Mu2a and cut out.
Good question. PCS shouldn‘t trigger when setting up the loco as it is a large pressure difference in the brake pipe that usually triggers it. Have you tried pressing [Shift]+[Enter] before setting up the brakes to disable warning devices?
Excellent question, which would not be necessary if DTG had issued a users' manual with this otherwise great DLC. Come to think of it, this entire thread would be unnecessary.
To avoid popping the PCS during setup (mostly, this isn't 100%): Set MU2A valve first, then (if on a grade) set Indy brake to Full to hold the train. Move Automatic brake handle to Release Now set the cut-out valve. This (usually) avoids the problem of creating a too-rapid decrease in BP pressure, which is what happens if the handle is in Handle Off (or any braking setting) when you cut it in.
Its actually something that happens in the real world as well, we run GP9Rs at work, and when we swap ends, and switch over the MU2A valve itll typically dump the air and go into PCS Its something that isnt wrong on DTGs part but should be explained, no need to actually be expected to be a real engineer to play a simulator
Something absolutely wrong and probably 100 % unreal you can do if PCS lights up... simply cut out and cut in again, you should be fine then, though it's probably solving a bug with another bug
Correct, but should add what its for... Basically with Wabco brakes (formerly Westinghouse) when all the air is dumped this is considered an emergency - its the way the brakes are applied if there is train separation. When it happens in real life you're going to get and go for a walk to go and take a look at what caused it in the first place on the train. Then you're going to fix that and come back and reset PCS. PCS is probably most useful in single person operation because it means no matter how you leave the brake set in the locomotive its not going anywhere until you reset PCS. It would be conceivable that if you left both handles in release while you were fixing the problem the compressor might pump up the brake pipe releasing the brakes and roll away while you were out. Paul
I've stumbled upon another way to reset PCS: press the Engine start button (on the cab's back wall behind and above the engineer's seat, but "reachable" [very unrealistically] while sitting; wait a second or so, then press it again. I discovered this while driving one of the GP38-2 engines on TS's Norfolk Southern N-Line route and can't say whether it would fix the problem on any TSW engines.
What's 'unrealistic' is that the button is there at all; on the real loco the engine start is on the engine, not in the cab.
Sometimes its in the cab. Depends on the loco build for the railway. The diesels we run on the preserved railway are both primed at the engine then started from inside the cab. I've seen both on other mainline diesels too. Paul
Quite so; but on the SD40 (and F7), it's on the engine. The button in-game is in the cab because they didn't model the engine compartment (the CSX GP38-2 does it correctly)
I certainly accept that. Interestingly on the Au/Vic version of the F7 the S and the B class diesels (that were rebuilt into A class) vary from loco to loco. Whether they were delivered that way I could not tell you. Maybe they were moved at some point. Engine startup isn't quite right in TSW2 either, I would love to see a full loco prep from turning on the batteries, checking fuel, lube oil, water, priming (which is often by hand, not always electrically pumped) and moving the injector rack manually to make sure its free before hitting the button. I think that would add a lot to the gameplay. Paul
Oh yes, I‘d love a more realistic cold start. Ideally, something like that would come with an upgrade to the AI to handle cold starts as well so that we can have them in timetable mode. More opportunities for cold starts that way
Thank you for this! This was driving me up a wall, I didn't even know it was going into PCS, just a red line around the HUD throttle indicator and nothing out of the throttle handle.
Its good habit to put your independent brake into apply before releasing and cutting in the other brakes, that stops your train rolling away after the brakes pump up on everything else . I don't think the game actually emulates this, but in real life you'd also put the locomotive reverser into neutral and apply notch 1 on the throttle to give more mechanical power for the air compressor to do its work. I do it even though the game does nothing because its a nice touch of immersion. Paul
As I noted earlier, DTG has failed to publish a manual for the Clinchfield route; however, I went back to the original TSW & CSX manual and found this explanation: "Starting the EMD SD40-2 Locomotive 1. Set the Handbrake, you’ll find the handbrake wheel or lever at the short hood end of the locomotive. 2. Enter the cab and open the fuse box 3. Check that the main breaker and all fuses are switched to the on position and close the fuse box door. 4. Above the fuse box, set the Start/Run Switch to the Start position 5. Turn on the Engine Room Light, Platform Lights and Cab Light if required 6. Ensure the Reverser and Throttle at neutral positions 7. Proceed to the long hood end of the locomotive and open the Latch (upper right of the engine room door) and then the Engine Room Doors 8. Move and hold the Prime/Start Switch to the LEFT (Prime) for 5 seconds 9. Release the Prime/Start Switch and then move it to the RIGHT (Start) momentarily to trigger the engine start 10. Await the engine start to compete 11. Close the Engine Room Doors (note they must be closed in the right order!) 12. Return to the cab and set the Start/Run Switch to the Run position 13. Turn off the Engine Lights if you turned it on 14. Turn on the Number Lights as appropriate 15. Sit in the engineer’s seat 16. At the top right of the main control stand (your left), you will see three switches labelled Engine Run, Field Generator and Control & Fuel Pump, set all three switches to the on position (or upward) 17. Turn on the Ditch Lights, Gauge Lights and set Headlights to bright 18. Check the brake stand and ensure the Cut-Off Valve is set to Freight 19. Check the MU-2A Valve and ensure it is set to Lead or Dead A cold and dark locomotive starts with no air in the brake pipe, so this must now be pressurised. [DTG sometimes insists on British spelling even when writing about American engines.] 1. Leaving the Reverser in neutral, move the Throttle to Notch 1. You will hear the engine rev up and on the left-hand gauge of the two brake gauges, you should see the red needle (denoting the Main Reservoir pressure) rising, and on the right-hand gauge, the red needle (denoting the Brake Cylinder pressure) also rising as the air is immediately fed into the locomotive’s brake system. Wait for the Main Reservoir to reach 140psi. 2. Check that the Independent Brake is set to its maximum setting (full on). 3. Release the Automatic Brake, you should now see the white needle in the lefthand gauge (denoting the Equalising Reservoir pressure) rise, and the white needle in the right-hand gauge (denoting the Brake Pipe pressure) rise behind it. Once both of these needles reach 90psi, the air brake system is ready for service. 4. Move the Throttle back to Notch 0. 5. Step out to the front of the locomotive and release the Handbrake. The locomotive is now ready for operation by setting the Reverser to your intended direction of travel. All you need to do now is release the Independent Brake and apply throttle as required." Of course, in most scenarios and sessions all of these steps are not needed since the startup sequence has already begun -- just figure out where to start (sometimes an instruction provides a hint) and do what's necessary.