Steam Liveries

Discussion in 'Creators Club' started by charlie#7578, Oct 11, 2023.

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  1. charlie#7578

    charlie#7578 New Member

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    Good Morning all,

    I've been having a go at the livery designer and attempted to create a black 5 using the jubilee model. Hope you all enjoy these reskins any tips would much be appreciated and if anyone wants any more let me know and I'll have a go. 9752b0eb-593e-447c-a87b-f6dd459efe13.jpeg dd8a3e47-aff7-46e6-b244-389bd95a2e3e.jpeg 70c3c129-8aa2-4c4c-a329-21ad67014e8c.jpeg 3266c570-a8be-4c35-a748-4a415150fa87.jpeg
     
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  2. dave55007

    dave55007 Well-Known Member

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    Hi Charlie, great work there. I particularly like your version of 44871 in its 'British Railways' guise! I like your lining on 45305 too; I find it very hard to get right, especially on the corners.
    I hadn't noticed before, but are the OHLE signs permanently fixed to the base model?

    Regards,
    Dave
     
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  3. rigsby#3981

    rigsby#3981 Well-Known Member

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    Hi mate great work but just one tip from me. Looking at the buffer beams your red has not filled the gaps.
    So just a little tip slightly twist you decal not so much it becomes un level but enough to make them gaps fill.
    So if your working on the buffers then you can work either from the left or right as it’s only a small plate looking from the sides.
    And you can obviously do it from the rear.
    A picture of some recent test work with lines on. Theses lines are done from the front of the loco and rear of the tender.
    The reason for this if I tilt from the side then the longer the line from the side the more it will be unbalanced from left to right end say,,,so working from the front can sometime be beneficial. IMG_7476.jpeg IMG_7475.jpeg Test shots,,not complete.
    So yes just something I just noticed and such a simple fix that will make your livery’s look cleaner and neater looking than they already are.
    But if these are some of your first work then we’ll done your there already, but if there is anything I can help you with more in the future then just give us a shout.
    I only work on console tho,,I don’t deal with Mods or PC. Just PS5 as I do all work by hand so just thought I’d drop that in as working on the two has so many differences.

    Cheers.
    Lee. (TSLP)
     
  4. rigsby#3981

    rigsby#3981 Well-Known Member

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    Hi Dave just a quick one I noticed that too,,,they look a little large like but I don’t remember them being on the DLCs LPC 8f’s or Jubilee Class when I working on them a few months back.
    Wonder if these have been added or changed on the model it’s self.
    Mmmm,,,I am gonna check this one.

    Lee.
     
  5. dave55007

    dave55007 Well-Known Member

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    Hi Charlie, another way of sorting the bufferbeams is to crank the projection settings to 100%, that will fill the gaps in.
    I take it you added the OHLE signs yourself as they do not seem to be on the base model.

    Dave
     
  6. rigsby#3981

    rigsby#3981 Well-Known Member

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    Indeed but only on the top slider or the poor lad will have things mirrored.
    Top slider to 100 percent and the lower slider set to 50 percent for face. A standard setting for now.
    But having both set at 50 percent and a twist will still work,,or else your just making work for oneself.

    No point on making work hard as working on a livery of say 1000 decals is very time consuming and at times frustrating,,so saving time is as much as important as knowing how to set decals.
    In time from a beginner you will now which decals to leave and ones that may need attention,,,for again knowing which side to work from too will also make a lot of difference as you start to know what can be done in the least time and with least decals from set angles.

    So yes working with projection tool is fine but no need to if it is a standard application of decal. Yet the twist is a must,,and so is saving time.

    Lee.
     
  7. rigsby#3981

    rigsby#3981 Well-Known Member

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    Hi mate,,,just to back up the projection setting and the importance of the slight twist I thought I’d show you this as I work on 2500 “Windsor Lad”
    In the first shot I have set both projection sliders to full yet you still see the small white gaps.
    In the second screenshot I have altered the values lower but twisted the decal ever so slightly and as you can see the gap is filled even if left on 50 percent on both bars as a set standard so again would be no need to waste time adjusting if no need to. IMG_7513.jpeg IMG_7512.jpeg

    So just thought I’d show ya some pictures to help you get a better understanding as I was just doing them anyway.

    Lee.
     
  8. charlie#7578

    charlie#7578 New Member

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    Thanks for all your tips and support thankyou

    Charlie
     
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  9. rigsby#3981

    rigsby#3981 Well-Known Member

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    No worries mate that’s what we’re for in the community to help each other out,,or what’s the point on being on here.
    So yes anytime mate,,,and I’d like to welcome you the TSW community and for also writing back on here.

    I very much appreciate that kind Sir.

    Anyway have to dash just trying get this done,,,,if you like steam trains.
    I’ve done the lettering as you can see but just need to finish the numbers and hopefully I’ll have this out.
    By this I mean 2500 “Windsor Lad” in Apple green or Grass Green as some call it.

    IMG_7660.jpeg IMG_7661.jpeg
    Work above done today and below as it was before work. IMG_7527.jpeg IMG_7541.jpeg Thanks again.
    Lee (TSLP).
     
  10. rigsby#3981

    rigsby#3981 Well-Known Member

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    Oh and before I go how are you getting on with the tools etc,,,are you settled in yet?,,as it can be quite daunting if you new to the game but as I’ve said before your doing well if so.

    I’d like to think I am pretty good at what I do now but trust me when I first started I didn’t have a clue I tried but gave up,,,it was only due to poor quality work at the time for what I was looking that made me start up and work passed the niggles and frustrations the game can do.
    But I just couldn’t do it or get my head around it I was crap mate,,,you done way better than me that’s for sure.

    Keep the good work up lad.

    Lee.
     
  11. charlie#7578

    charlie#7578 New Member

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    Still messing about with the different settings within the editor I've mainly been practicing with the jubilee as a practice bed. The warning labels are on the mainline jubilee pack dave55007.

    And many thanks Lee you've given me lots of helpful tips reading what you've posted and I am a fan of A3s and going to attempt a few reskins in the near future look forward to downloading and trying out yours when it's finished
     
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  12. rigsby#3981

    rigsby#3981 Well-Known Member

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    Hi Charlie,,yes you will do it can take a while too depending on your skill levels and patience,,,you’ll also find you will get to now the best way to manipulate the layers on a certain loco the more you work on a particular loco like you are doing now.

    It also depends on how much you love spending time on making them over driving them or if its just a hobby or an addiction like me lol.
    Or if it just for fun as again I started out to make ones I wanted etc as I enjoy doing what I do,,,,I just got dragged in the world of trains the more I did research,,and now I can’t seem to stop.

    And if you have TSW4 with the new limits layers then we definitely have more freedom to push our skill set and learn more and more as you go. By DTG upping the decals from 300 on TSW2 and TSW3 to a thousand on TSW4.

    Just a quick tip if you don’t already know but I do believe if you have work on say I don’t know let’s say an SD70ce a SMH DLC is from TSW2, we can work on them in TSW4 with the new layer amount but I don’t think they will work for users on TSW3 or TSW2.
    But if you working from TSW2 or TSW3 on the locos you say then it wouldn’t be a problem for you or your users.
    This may have been fixed but due to the amount of time spent on liveries I didn’t really follow DTG’s updates or fixes so if cross gen liveries are something your looking at maybe see if it works first as I placed one up and SD70ACe and it’s still on 5 not moved as user will know it won’t work with their game title. (Or they just don’t like it) either way it’s not moved.

    So I’ll leave for know mate sure you busy with projects and I’m trying get this “Windsor lad” out,,but please don’t hesitate if you need any help or pointers,,always a pleasure to pass on some knowledge I’ve gained since starting and you sound like you have passion for you work so I’ll offer my hand to help any day mate.

    And as alway thank you for kind remarks.

    Cheers Charlie.
    Lee.
     
  13. charlie#7578

    charlie#7578 New Member

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    Just a few attempts so far pretty happy with the lining on the tender.

    Charlie
     

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  14. rigsby#3981

    rigsby#3981 Well-Known Member

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    Hello again,,,,I’ve just had a quick look at your work and it looks a lot neater,,and more sharp around the edges and I think you got that Matt black look down to a T.

    I was also looking at the colour of the letters but could be wrong here I’ll have to double check but Standard Black locomotives or Standard Tank engines used Sunrise Yellow set against Brown for goods locomotives and the Gold or Gilt set against red for passenger services. You could be using the yellow as it’s hard to tell the difference to be fair or set them apart on the real things.

    Don’t take this as an insult when I say this either but if working off models or pictures of, then some are and can be inaccurate them selfs even from top model manufacturers.
    I found this out doing my homework as I’ve never been into trains as a hobby it’s only since getting into liveries more have I had to do research so been picking up as I go.

    So if you or anyone is wanting to delve into making liveries to the extent I have but without much knowledge maybe from only what I picked up as a kid then it’s definitely worth doing your home work first,,that all depends on what knowledge you have already of course.
    For it can be a mind field of information if you’re wanting your liveries to be spot on even I noticed a few cocks up on my work which I’ll need to sort out,,,just silly things but still in the railway world everything has to be of correct standards.
    I don’t know how DTG manage to get so much detail into this game to be fair to DTG when I think about it all.

    So yes not bad Charlie again if your still learning then you doing well mate.

    One or two things I’ve noticed tho if you want my honest constructive criticism,,and it’s the BUFFER BEAMS:),,,it looks like you’ve not twisted them slightly again or adjusted the top slider bar in the projection tool. This is one that needs attention you see as it’s not on a flush surface,,so both the twist and the top projection slider needs to be set to 100 for this to sit neatly and fill the black underside.

    It’s a common mistake by beginners and you don’t want to be letting the hard work done on the rest of the loco by something so simple to fix.

    So great work Charlie,,but remember TWIST and give that decal a little attention.

    Lee.
     
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2023
  15. charlie#7578

    charlie#7578 New Member

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    Hi Lee yes, thanks for the feedback, yeah it's hard matching the colours still using model and picture references the lettering on the tender is the wrong type but going to play about at it with more layers and yeah the buffer beams need tilting will get round to that when I'm not working, keep giving the feedback Lee much helpful downloaded your A3 other day fantastic detail should be proud it's brilliant.

    Charlie
     
  16. charlie#7578

    charlie#7578 New Member

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    Other thing if anyone has any knowledge on how to recreate the british railway embelm? Could do with DTG providing it as a logo as such.
     
  17. dave55007

    dave55007 Well-Known Member

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    A decent picture and lots of patience! :D

    20xxx.21.jpg
     
  18. rigsby#3981

    rigsby#3981 Well-Known Member

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    Hi mate I’m a little busy at the mo,,,and proper mad,,,,just lost this,, IMG_7735.jpeg ,but I’ll give you some pointers if you like later on.
    I was hoping to get this loco out but been pushed for time.
    As a quick tip try get your master done. That way you will get more variety of shapes to manipulate rather that having just curved or straight decals.

    Get them and then you can give better shapes to you logos and save on decals. A must on designs like this as you want the rest of the loco to have all what the original may have. So again saving decals is a must so get them masters done.
    Oh and like Dave said plenty of patience. A lot.

    Tat tar.

    Lee.
     
  19. rigsby#3981

    rigsby#3981 Well-Known Member

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    Hi mate sorry just seen this as been busy like and just had that mess (EDIT) up. But hey it’s okay any time mate I’ll try help when ever I can and if you and when get more time as I just do this all day so it’s easy for me to criticise so please except my apology there,,,I Just thought you started a new motor that’s all.
    Then let me know so I can get some of the colour codes I work from so you can try have a play with them,,see what you think.

    And thank you for subscribing to my work it’s always a pleasure to hear that you’re enjoying it.
    Which one did you download?,,and if your looking for something you may like then again give us a shout I’ll be happy to oblige.

    Anyway I’ll have to fire off,,,get it bonnie nite lol. (Sorry a Dad Joke)

    And hey mate,,,don’t sweat your doing good already. Just enjoy it,,,don’t stress out like I tend to do trying to hard.
    Just relax and enjoy it. Your work will thank you for it and it will most certainly look better.
    Take your time.

    Enjoy your night.
    Lee
     

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