Epic Games Db Br 101 Instruments And Driving Help

The "angleicher" is used because the slightly pressure differences on the drivers brake valves, If you change ends from a cab car to a loco, or the other way around. Basicly the main reference is 5 bar. Its not recommend to go over 5.5. Takes you 20mins to wait down to 5 bar.

--> There were cases, where it was managed to connect the 10bar HBL to the 5 bar brake pipe. In such cases the entire train with all chambers have to be emptied, no chance to get the pressure down again.

Total vent and pump again.

 

so... here is the result of 4hrs of work lol...

here are scoring sheets of those 4 runs:
1) just lead loco

2) First setting up ZDS BR120 and THEN setting up the lead cab

3) First setting up the lead cab and THEN switching on both ZDS BR120 switches

4) Almost the same as previous one, but here, after doing the same as before, I also opened the MCB and put pantograph down, then back up and closed the MCB, which also caused the pantograph change on the rear loco (changed to the farther one at the end of the train)


and so here are my conclusions:
1) in terms of arrival times, it is pretty much identical (in the third run I either slept on Sifa warning or forgot to acknowledge some PZB magnet, so I got Zwangsbremsung
2) in terms of power taken, there are slight differences, however, I havent been keeping detailed track of the changes in juice (amperes/kN)
3) tried different audio software setups (got external sound card + software) until I settled for the one that brings out the kind of sounds that an active loco makes so I could determine if the rear loco does any noise... for this purpose, either camera 3 from different angles, or camera 2 if brought especially under the bogies (good for hearing traction motors I guess) and as a supplementary one I also tried camera 8 (which I have set for boom camera - the kind of camera that lets you watch as the train swishes by) - results werent surprising... in the first run, I could only hear sounds of a loco turned on, in the other three I could hear strong noises suggesting the MU mode works
4) the main difference between running just the lead (and possibly still taking some juice via the rear loco pantograph, correct me if I am wrong) and any of those methods I used to try to make MU mode working, is the comfort of the ride - the acceleration is noticeably smoother, less jerky, and a bit quicker... when braking, it is also more rapid, but still smoother, allowing for finer control (or harder braking if you are confident)... and the acceleration to the AFB limit aka recovery after braking is noticeably quicker

sooo... while IRL most of setting up is supposed to take place while not under power, here, as long as you set everything up and turn on both ZDS BR120 switches, looks like you should be fine

feel free to add to this or correct me... this is one of those "small" things that not that many people use, but it still sucks that there is barely any info on this in manuals and even elsewhere... thats why I started the debate here as well as on Facebook... so we all have future reference for a better gameplay without fumbling in the dark

cheers guys

 

anyway, how do I tag someone from DTG to check on these findings?

 

Dtg delivers a "solid" simulation to use. If you are not familiar with trains its the players problem. Thats how it is.

 

well, this functionality is not explained in any manual, not in TSW manuals, and only briefly mentioned in TSC manual for BR101 (since it is not really used there, it has no further elaboration)... so the only thing I can is to dig the internet and player knowledge... found some info, but every source I have found (like 3 or 4), each writes the instructions for ZDS in different way... and not a single one explains why this or so

thats why I spread a bit of a net here in a couple threads and also on FB TSW Community page... thats why I did some of my own practical in-game research... exactly because I WANT to get more familiar with this loco, as it is probably one of my favs, if not my fav loco in this game

I want to know more, and also some explanations for stuff... because that way I remember things better... I have never been good at just memorizing things, I have always learned better if I got some explaining along with it

and since this community has proven really good, friendly and helpful, I am trying to get hold of people and information that provides definite answer... I dont want to bother anyone, just want to find stuff out... thats partly what OCD tendencies do to you - you discover sth you dont know and you just have to go for it until you find out

peace

edit: I noticed BR101 cab 1 and 2 arent the same... cab 1 has that ZDS switch, while the 2 doesnt

 

a little question - when going over a neutral section, I put throttle into off, then open the MCB, then close it... most other locos at that point are able to take power, and I dont remember right now, but BR101 either takes a bit of time before you are able to apply power, or you have to put throttle into at least min and then back off before the traction lock disappears... is this normal/prototypical? like, some quirk of 101?

 

The principle is the same on all german locos. Follow the signage, zero throttle, open MCB, wait until loco has passed the sign to power on again. There might be a delay, because of the speed the main switch is closing and the electronics recognizing the current again.

141 main switch


110 TSW MCB (not animated unfortunately, always open)

 

thanks a lot for the info will test that when I get home

 

Just wondering where you found those tech graphs, also it would be nice to annotate them, for proper credit to the author. Just my 3¢ Opinion.

I guess that is why you get paid the Big bucks, I never once thought to look at the top of the train to see what is or is not happening with the Panto & MCB. Also not surprised that it's not animated, Good Heavens To Mergtroid, why would they do that?