Discussion in 'PC Discussion' started by paul.pavlinovich, Dec 21, 2020.
thanks. I came close to getting one yesterday but as they say "No Cigar"!
Something I would like to see added, or at least changed, is how calibration is done. Right now if I want to re-calibrate just the throttle I have to go though everything else. This is an issue as sometimes everything will be calibrated how I want it except one lever might be off. I then re-calibrate only to have another lever off.
Example: I had my reverser get out of calibration however everything else was fine. I re-calibrated and fixed the reverser, but then by train brake lever was out of calibration. I re-calibrated and fixed the reverser, but then the wiper switch was out of calibration. At that point I gave up and just lived with "wiper switch 0%" popping up all the time. Had I been able to just calibrate the reverser independently of everything else I wouldn't have had any other issues.
New to Raildriver as it only came this week (Used not new) and loving the beta version for TSW2 makes things like the 1972 Stock and TGV so much immersive to drive. Been testing today - my biggest challenge will be the US Loco's which is my task for this afternoon so it may not end well.
But having it extended to the preserved collection would be fantastic. I don't have much time in the day as it is - now I have nothing at all lol
Rob aka Artful
I have had no problems calibrating and operating my RD with US locomotives. The only exceptions would be the map button not working and the camera buttons being a little quirky. Good luck.
Got myself a rail driver and my word it is fun! Pretty much agree with what has been said so far. Some of the controls seem to be a tad "twitchy" but I found that was the case on the keyboard as well for some of the German stock.
As for which direction for the power handle I'm a bit in both camps, I like to be more on the simulator side so having it as to what the stock is for that side of it but it may get a little confusing when using the same controller set up differently.
I don't use the speaker at all as the constant rumbling of train noises gives my family the irates but yes you need a power pack to make it work as it is a powered sub woofer. The controller itself will work fine on the USB with no external power pack.
The latest update that came out (for me) today has changed the door controls across all passenger. They are now consistent except for Isle of Wight where they are inconsistent and there is a a new game play problem with the right doors unable to close - I've submitted a technical report here on the forum https://forums.dovetailgames.com/th...e-of-wight-class-483-after-last-update.34702/
I've put some hours into South Eastern High Speed (both the high speed and bog standard models) with RD and I have new feedback and most of it is good news.
The lights and wiper switches both now work and work well, but I suspect there's something still interesting in the process behind the scenes as buttons still get pressed more than once to make things happen.
The door open/close is reliable and seems to kick off a process that pushes the button then watches the doors, when they are in their door close chimes and timer the button gets pushed and pushed and pushed like a special person at a pedestrian crossing. Sure pushing it often makes it better . From a player perspective this is good as it works well. The only weirdness is sometimes you can't pop open both sides simultaneously but doing this is a bit rare except on LIRR where it does happen sometimes.
Reverser is predictable and works great.
Throttle is a little interesting and still has the same issue of not getting into the highest power notch without trying repeatedly and you eventually get it. I've suggested a method that will resolve this above. The reaction time seems to have improved on this lever which is great.
Map button still doesn't work.
The other buttons don't seem to be exactly the mapping in the controls screen - mostly they're the same but there are differences. While exploring these is kinda fun it would be discouraging for a noob trying to get into their brand new RD for the first time.
As a nice to have when you're messing about with cameras flicking around there doesn't seem to be a way to get back to the drivers cab with one button which might be nice if you need to get back in there in a hurry.
I'm liking the direction this is going and thanks to DTG for the work that is going into RD TrainSim-Matt
Today I'm going to get brave and try SEHS with the safety systems turned on and see if the alerter button works now or if it dumps you in the poo like the German locos did.
p.s. You know how you all keep saying no-one buys the whole game and all the DLC... its true I've only got about 80% of it. But mostly I wait for sales but I so wanted a new route with RD that I went for SEHS and I'm pretty happy that I did. Having a bunch of new trains and services is fun. I only rarely play the routes and trains that don't support RD now.
The above post saved me a lot of typing. I agree with pretty much all of it.
I was worried about buying SEH as Matt had said on stream that for him the throttle wasn’t working as expected. However it seems to work really well for me.
The doors working correctly makes a big difference. I’m surprised how much better it makes the experience.
If I had one request. Please fix the map button! That’s the only thing I’m regularly having to go to the keyboard for.
I’m still pretty happy with the way the beta is going. Lots still to work on, but in general it is working really well.
Don't play Isle of Wight then, that got broken in this update. You can't close the right hand doors after you opened them. That seemed to get the opposite change to the other routes.
Thanks Paul for the info. I have one coming from the US and wanted to ask is the US plug on the power pack two or three pin? As I want to get a UK plug converter.
Shame about the Isle of Wight problem as that is one of my goto routes, any updates on that? Also could I ask is it possible to have the sound directed to my headphones (as with all sound) rather than the built in speaker? Perhaps using a Y connector or something?
It's a 12 volt adapter brick connected to a standard 2 pin 115 volt plug, only required for the subwoofer. Otherwise, works from USB. I've wondered about the headphones connection too, but haven't figured it out yet. My Artis Pros don't have an input jack that I can see, so I don't use the subwoofer, except occasionally when I use speakers.
When I got mine in the early 2000's it was an two pin plug. What voltage are you in the UK? You might be better getting a local plug pack.
I'm sure Isle of Wight will get addressed but this is a beta so it might be a while. You can still use the route opening/closing the doors via the keyboard.
I dare say you could split the sound if you really wanted to but if you're listening on decent headphones I don't think you'd get all that much from using the sub woofer together unless you just want the vibration in the RD.
My one came today, I did order a UK power pack and even though it worked reading the 'brick' that came with the RD says the input ranges from 110-240 volts so I should have have got just a two pin plug converter, still I'm sure it will come in handy.
Was hoping for an update on the IOW route as I play that quite a bit but I'm sure they are working on it.
Been trying to get used it, pretty good but can be fiddley, I'm playing the Bakerloo btw. It is disappointing there is only two UK routes. It just says Bakerloo and IOW in the settings for UK, is that right? Any more news DTG?
The new route SEHS also has RailDriver support for the 375 and 395 Javelin.
Could I ask anyone that has a RailDriver how I could set the sound up with my setup. I have the Arctis Pro wireless headphones which has a DAC connected to the PC via a USB lead. The DAC has a line out but as far as I can tell it is either/or and doesn't mix which is a shame. On the headphones themselves there is a jack where I can connect another pair of headphones so two people can listen, I thought this might help but I'm stuck where to plug in the Audio lead from the RailDriver, would it still work if I pluged it into the PC's Audion jack giving that my headphones are USB?
I know the RailDriver works perfectly well without the sound but I'm bored, lol. Thanks for any info.
Your PC most likely has on board sound output (green headphone plug). You can use a free program like Voicemeeter to combine these outputs so sound comes out of both. I have the Raildriver, a Buttkicker and headphones all connected.
I have the wired version of those same headphones, and I haven't figured out how to use the subwoofer other than with speakers. Tell you the truth, I'm not that impressed with the subwoofer sound, so I just don't bother.
I've only used it with speakers and after two hours of diesel noise I think my wife chosen between the power point and filing for divorce.
Consequentially I don't use the sub woofer .
After being away from the forums for a bit, I've just found this thread. Raildriver support has definitely increased my enjoyment of TSW2 considerably - having physical controls is a major improvement over futzing about with a keyboard.
I am curious though - has anyone had issues with the CSX locomotives not working with Raildriver? I've checked the GP38-2, SD40-2, and AC4400CW in timetable mode and despite recalibrating the controller multiple times, none of the buttons or levers are recognized. However, the other TSW2 content (72 Stock, Talent 2, ICE3M) work fine, albeit with their own issues - Talent 2's Sifa acknowledge doesn't work, Talent 2 and ICE3M have windshield and headlight controls mapped to the same rotary switch.
The YN2 isn't working. YN3b is.
Ah - I've only been using the YN2 locomotives (always preferred Bright Future). I'll try that out again once I have the time.
Hmm, can't explain that. I've had no problems controlling the SPG locomotives. The light switch is a bit finicky and, of course, the map button doesn't work. Also, RD does not solve the dynamic brake problem on the AC4400CW. Other than that... I should add that I have only used my RD on SPG. I've yet to try it on the other routes.
Anthony mentioned that RD only works with the YN3b locomotives - I had neglected to try that. I do recommend trying the RD with the other stock - it's really improved the experience despite some lasting bugs.
That would combine the sound with my USB? If so cool, I'll try it. Ta.
"real controls" makes a huge difference for me too. If a sim has RD support then I play it a lot more - I tend to drop the few that don't.
Under Advanced Controls in settings are the exact locomotives it works with. I've used the Sandpatch locos without a problem. I see someone else said some work and some don't. I'll have to give it another try.
I have ordered my RD and it should be here mid March. Is it heavy and sturdy enough to not move around the table top without screwing it down? I have the Hotas warthog control for flight and it's metal and heavy, feels the part, doesn't move around.
It's weighted internally and has a subwoofer speaker built in, so it doesn't move easily
I haven’t had an issue with it moving around. You need very little pressure on the buttons or levers so you are not pushing on anything hard enough to move it.
That said, it’s pretty heavy.
Yes, very well-built and sturdy. Some people have had one for many years and they still work reliably. Metal base keeps it planted.
Has anyone ever taken a Raildriver apart to see if any improvements can be made? Like is there any loose play between the pots and levers that could eliminated?
At $200 a pop, I think I'll leave mine intact
Not if you want to void the warranty on the Raildriver, after what I spent for my including taxes and shipping going to leave it alone.
I have my Raildriver on a glass desk top and it only moves around because I've got a keyboard cable tucked in under it. I've never even considered taking mine apart. I do remember a blog article many years ago from a person who had taken theirs apart and built it into a SD40 control stand. I tried to find it but it seems to have vanished into the internet bin.
Good to see there are some improvements for us in "Next Arrival"
[Improvement] Changed the alerter button link for RailDriver to be reset alongside gamepad safety systems
[Improvement] The RailDriver menu now shows correct control localisation
I am a Raildriver user since yesterday . Thanks to TSW I have ordered one from Amazon. I am really enjoying playing TSW with the RD. Now I cant wait until Preserved Collection will be compatible .
Welcome to the club. I'd be very interested to know how many RD users there are on the sim.
I think in copmparison to the whole amount of players, "we" are nearly nothing.
It's a niche product for a niche hobby so probably numbers in the hundreds
I got it for the legacy trains in TSx and haven't used it much yet in TSW. Waiting for the preserved to get full functionality
The RD is nearly 20 years old so there are lots out there no longer under warranty so that is why I asked.
Then if it is that old than that will be up to you looking at mine it does not appear that hard to get into.
Mine is brand new. Since the RD has been around for so many years I figured someone has taken one apart by now. If mine was no longer under warranty I would already have taken it apart and not bothered asking.
Mine is approaching 20 years old - I bought the original TS when it launched in 2001 and got RD when it launched in 2003 just before leaving the USA to come back to Australia. It makes a lot of difference to game play that's for sure.
As for numbers I've never seen anything published, PI make proper simulator consoles for training as their real job, but I imagine they wouldn't bother keeping RD as a product if they weren't making thousands of them. You'd need to do that to be economically viable. That said I agree its a niche controller in a nice game so its likely to be hundreds. I expect the main reason we get native support in TSW2 is because Matt has one .
And the fact that Raildriver is compatible with all other train simulators, including TS20XX.
That doesn't hurt a bit
I use it with nearly all the simulators I've got. There are only a few it doesn't work with and to be honest they're really not worth playing (WOS 1 & 4).
Having had to shell out a fortune to get mine to the UK it would be nice for an update from Matt.
paul.pavlinovich, Caught your video about the RailDriver, thanks. Oh btw stick with your pronunciation of St. Pancras whoever told you it was 'Pancreas' was winding you up, lol.
Will you be doing more with the RailDriver? Cheers.
I am streaming every Sunday 9am Melbourne time (currently UTC+11 but it will become UTC+10 on 4th April). This Sunday (assuming it drops and assuming it does work with RD) I will drive the new 465 Networker. Links to the channels are below:
YouTube channel https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4qEu51qghoPeF2B5mNkS_w
I was streaming on my main channel, but I was annoying my existing subscribers who are there for my photo tutorials so I made new
channels for trains .
I've got scheduled streams on both you should be able to click on and see what time/day they are for you. We're in the future because of the dateline so it might be your Saturday.
Cool, cheers M8
TrainSim-Matt DTG Natster thanks for trying to fix the Alert button issues with RailDriver as noted in the release notes. After installing the just released update my play testing finds
SEHS-395-Javelin - the alert button no longer works at all - it does nothing
The alert button now shows as mapped to GamePadResetSafetySystems
SEHS-375 - works the same way as before - i.e. it cannot reset AWS but does work for Vigilance
The Alert button is still mapped to Alerter / DSD Reset
BR422 Talent 2 the button is mapped to GamepadResetSafetySystems and no longer works at all
I have not tried any others but this result is kind of disappointing. I'll try the others after work.
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